Eclade mussels (églade, as some people say on the Ile d’Oléron) are probably the most spectacular way to cook mussels. You stand them upright on a wooden board, packed tightly together, cover them with dry pine needles and set the whole thing on fire. A few minutes later everything is cooked, with a smoky taste you will not find anywhere else.
It is a tradition from Charente-Maritime, on the French Atlantic coast, where pine forests meet the mussel farms. I discovered it in August 2020 during my holidays on the Ile d’Oléron and I instantly loved how friendly it is: everybody gathers around the board and eats with their fingers.
Here is the traditional method from the Charente coast. Arranging the mussels takes a little patience, but the result is really worth it. Just remember to do it outdoors, in a safe place.
The recipe
Classic recipeThe traditional recipe for the dish, not the one from the restaurant where I tasted it.
Ingredients
Eclade
- 2 kg rope-grown mussels (moules de bouchot)
- 1 large bucket of very dry pine needles (about 10 l)
- 1 untreated raw wooden board, about 50 x 50 cm
- 4 nails
To serve
- 1 fresh baguette
- 100 g salted butter
- Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
Method
- Scrub the mussels under cold water, pull off the beards and throw away any that are broken or stay open when tapped. Rinse them several times, then drain them well: they should be as dry as possible so they do not smother the fire.
- Choose an open spot outdoors, on sand or a stone slab, away from trees, dry grass and anything that can burn. Check that no fire ban is in place and keep a bucket of water close by. Wet the board so it does not catch fire.
- Hammer the 4 nails in a square in the centre of the board, about 2 cm apart. Wedge 4 mussels upright between the nails, with the pointed hinge end facing up and the rounded end resting on the board.
- Keep standing the mussels upright all around in a spiral, packing them tightly so they hold each other up. Cover the board this way: it is the longest step, so allow a good 20 minutes.
- Cover the mussels with a thick layer of dry pine needles, about 15 to 20 cm deep. They should be completely hidden.
- Light the needles in several places around the edge. Let them burn for 3 to 5 minutes, adding a handful of needles wherever the shells still look pale. The mussels are cooked when they are blackened and slightly open.
- Once the flames have died down, fan the ashes away with a piece of cardboard. Do not blow on them or the ash will go everywhere. Discard any mussels that have not opened.
- Serve straight away, right on the board, with the bread and salted butter. Pull the mussels off by hand and eat them with your fingers, taking care with the hot shells.
Tips and variations
- Choose medium-sized rope-grown mussels: very large ones cook less evenly and small ones struggle to stand upright.
- Maritime pine needles are ideal. Gather them in dry weather and store them under cover: damp needles smoke instead of burning.
- In summer, fires are often banned near forests. Check with the local town hall and never make an eclade on a windy day.
- Eclade is eaten right away. Leftover mussels, taken out of their shells, keep for 24 hours in the fridge and are great in a salad or an omelette.
Recipe shared for guidance only, adapt it to your equipment: times and temperatures may vary. Check for allergens (gluten, milk, eggs, fish, shellfish, nuts, sesame…) and make sure ingredients are fresh. Raw or undercooked fish, meat and eggs are not recommended for pregnant women, young children, elderly or vulnerable people. Take care with hot oil, flambéing and alcohol. I am not a health or nutrition professional.