Milan is my second home in Italy: I have been some fifteen times since 2013, often on an overnight bus from Moselle, for a weekend of sightseeing, good food and matches at San Siro. Here is my Milan.

Must-sees

  • The Duomo and its rooftop: go up onto the cathedral roof (booking recommended), the view over the city and the marble spires is incredible.
  • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and Piazza dei Mercanti, right next door.
  • Sforza Castle and its fountain, then Parco Sempione up to the Arco della Pace.
  • The Navigli, Milan’s canals, for me the most beautiful place in the city, especially in the evening.
  • Porta Nuova and Piazza Gae Aulenti, modern Milan and its skyline.
  • The Monumental Cemetery, a real open-air museum, and the ruins of San Giovanni in Conca.
  • Chinatown (via Paolo Sarpi), a century-old district to explore while tasting dumplings.
  • The historic wooden trams, still running through the city.

San Siro, the temple of football

Watching a match at San Siro (Giuseppe Meazza) is something else: the AC Milan vs Inter derby, the Curva Sud chants, giant tifos. Before the game, a panino salsiccia con cipolla e peperoni outside the stadium, and afterwards, walking down the famous spiral towers. The AC Milan store on via Dante and Casa Milan complete the visit.

Where to eat in Milan

  • Sardinian food: Mes’Ora, Sa Mesa (raw seafood platter) and Vento di Sardegna in Sesto San Giovanni.
  • Neapolitan pizza: Bella Napoli in Sesto San Giovanni, my favourite, and Rossomodoro.
  • Trattorias: Al Toscanaccio (Bullona district), Al Meazza near the stadium, an Apulian trattoria on the Navigli.
  • Chinatown: Ravioleria Sarpi for delicious, cheap dumplings.
  • In the morning: brioche al pistacchio and cappuccino, the real Italian breakfast.

Practical info

  • I often go on an overnight bus from Moselle, or by car through Switzerland.
  • To sleep for less: Sesto San Giovanni, in the north, a few metro stops from the centre (M1 line). I stay at the Grand Hotel Barone di Sassj.
  • In December, the Christmas markets on Piazza Duomo and at the Arco della Pace are worth it.
  • Easy day trips by train: the Pavia guide and Lake Como.

My travel diaries